Fifty and Out?
An article appeared in The Guardian earlier this year titled What Not to Wear If You’re a Man Over 50. Both on The Guardian’s Facebook page and within certain closed groups on the internet (where the average age is around 50 and approximately 95% male), the response was a combination of anger, incredulity and ridicule.
I mean, if you are going to basically offer out the fashion equivalent of the Jehova’s Witnesses when they come knocking at your door, trying to ram their religious opinions down your throat, it’s probably best if, in the photo used to accompany said piece, you aren’t dressed like a combination of a 1980s geography teacher and Alan Partridge.
As someone myself who is rapidly approaching the bullseye of life and has always liked my clobber, what this article was professing I should be wearing just completely lost me. And therein lies the problem. We are all individuals, so what one person can carry off with aplomb will look awkward and ‘try-hard’ on another.
Firstly, the writer targets combat trousers. Now, if he means the shit ones with the elasticated ankles that you can probably buy in Primark for a fiver, I’m all for that. But he doesn’t. My sateen Type 107 fatigue pants from the Vietnam War (which I buy for about £30 on eBay) are probably – no, without question are – the comfiest trousers I have ever owned, they are built to withstand war (literally) and look good on pretty much anyone, any age.
His advice is to ‘keep things in the trouser department plain and simple, with a casual/formal edge’. Margaret Howell chinos at £165? If you’re going to spend that sort of cash, you’d be better off investing in a pair of Buzz Ricksons or McCoys (either Real or Toys), that will undoubtedly be better made and will last you at least a decade (£13-15 a year). If looking at the cheaper end of things, then Uniqlo do a lovely chino for about £30.
He seems to eschew denim altogether, which is strange as myself and loads of bods I know, love a bit of selvedge, be it Japanese, American or many of the other countries now creating some amazing pieces (Wales, Indonesia, China). A good pair of raw denim jeans, if treated correctly at the start of their life (I’m not going to even start that debate here), will again last at least a decade. So while £250 is a lot of cash to lay out, considering you’ll be living in them, watching them fade, shape themselves to your body, and then soften into something akin to a second skin over the following couple of years, it boils down to about 50p a week.
Next up it’s footwear for over 50s. How anyone can start coating off Converse, as he does, is beyond me. Then, to go on and recommend some of the brands he does as an alternative (Common Projects at £250 a pair anyone, Harry’s of London – shoes for nobs and toffs, Grenson – made in China these days and certainly not the Grenson of old), I mean, this is meant to be a fashion stylist. Who’s he styling?
Personally, I stopped wearing trainers a few years ago, but still like to rock a Converse-style shoe, such as the ultra-comfy and lovely looking Colchester basketball boot – the world’s first, pre-dating Converse by some 25 years.
Hawaiian Shirts out? Maybe, if you buy them in Top Man, but if you opt for the authentic and respectful reproductions by the likes of SunSurf, Jelado or a cheaper alternative such as Schott and Club Stubborn, you can’t go wrong. Most are 100% Rayon with coconut buttons. A timeless classic that will hopefully fall out of ‘fashion’ as quickly as it fell in.
Rollneck knits top of your list – do me a fucking favour – my grandad wears these to hide his turkey neck and he’s 89. How about a submariners’ jumper or just a good old fashioned, good quality sweat? Again, rather than keep buying rubbish quality ones around £40 that last about two washes before they shrink/lost their shape, invest a bit more and get one that lasts – plenty of great examples around from the likes of Good Measure, Buzz Rickson or McCoys. Slightly cheaper and still good quality is newcomer Arket.
Comfortable shoes? What, as opposed to uncomfortable shoes? I mean come on, recommending poorly made Grenson at £170? Redwings are rather ubiquitous admittedly, so how about a decent pair of Sanders Military Japanese issue shoes for less money? Time it right and you can even get a lifetime-lasting pair of Yuketens for less than half a monkey.
And on the subject of militaria, there’s a whole world of original, well-made vintage clobber out there, some of it around 75 years old now, that still looks great – and is always available on eBay plus in good quality vintage shops and fairs. These things were built to last and most will only appreciate in value. Alternatively, if buying new is more your bag, China seems to be churning out some decent quality and exceptionally good value reproductions currently from the likes of Bronson, Bob Dong, Workware, the list goes on but you too can look like Steve McQueen for far less than it used to cost from Japan.
The one statement the article makes that I completely agree with is less is more, investing in well-made and admittedly, usually pricier items, is the way forward, especially in the era of disposable fashion but, as I haven’t been paid for writing this article by either by Boy’s Own or a load of pony brands, you can rest assured that the opinions are my own and no-one else’s.
At the end of the day though, wear what you like, how you like and don’t let any other fucker tell you otherwise.